Tender/RIB

Repairing an inflatable and a RIB

Locating the leak, choosing adhesive for PVC and Hypalon, and bonding a durable patch on a tender.

The superyacht Lady Lau in Bonifacio

The first step is identifying the fabric, because the adhesive and the method depend on it. Inflatables are made from PVC (cheaper, welded, less resistant to UV and high temperatures) or from CSM/Hypalon on a neoprene base (dearer, glued, far more durable in sun and heat). Hypalon has a matt, rubbery surface; PVC is smoother and shiny. Using PVC adhesive on Hypalon, or the other way round, ends with the patch coming off.

Look for the leak once the chamber is inflated to working pressure. Spray the suspect areas with soapy water or washing-up liquid — bubbles come out of a leak. Check the seams, valves, the mountings of the handles and the floor around the transom particularly. Valves are often the source of escaping air — before you glue anything, check and tighten the valve core with the service key, because sometimes that solves the problem without a patch.

Small punctures up to about 3 mm (0.12 in) can be repaired with adhesive alone or a small round patch. Larger tears need a patch of the same material as the fabric, oval or round with rounded corners and at least 3–4 cm (1.18 in–1.57 in) of overlap all round the damage. Sharp corners on a patch lift first, so avoid rectangles. For a long tear it is worth using an inner and an outer patch.

Surface preparation decides how long the repair lasts. Degrease the fabric and the patch with the recommended cleaner (MEK/acetone as the adhesive maker specifies), and lightly key Hypalon with fine abrasive paper to activate the surface. Work at about 18–25°C (64–77°F), at low humidity and out of direct sun — gluing in the cold or in damp will not cure properly. Two-part adhesives (with hardener) are far more durable than single-part ones.

Apply the adhesive thinly to both surfaces and follow the open time of the product you are using. Typically you put on 2–3 thin coats, letting the solvent flash off between them, and join the parts when the adhesive is dry to the touch (contact adhesive). Press the patch down firmly with a roller, working from the centre outwards to drive out air bubbles. Only inflate and load it after the curing time the maker recommends, usually 24–72 h.

After the repair, inflate the chamber and repeat the soap test to confirm it is airtight. Keep an eye on the repaired spot for a few days. As a precaution: do not over-inflate the boat in hot weather (pressure rises with temperature, risking a seam letting go), protect the fabric from UV with a cover and wash the salt off after every use. PVC is particularly sensitive to prolonged heat and UV.

For more serious damage — long tears, factory seams coming apart, damage to the transom — consider a specialist workshop, as this needs experience and climate control. Always use the repair kits and adhesives recommended by the boat's maker (Zodiac, Plastimo, Bombard and the like). Keep a basic kit on board: patches, adhesive, cleaner and a valve key. A quick repair to a small puncture in the field saves the trip.

Material prices — products and options

Indicative prices in EUR (incl. VAT), as of July 2026. Products widely available in Europe; prices depend on the shop, the pack size and consumption. The links lead to example shops that ship across the EU. Dollar amounts are converted at 1 EUR = 1.1622 USD (ECB, 7 September 2026) and rounded — treat them as a rough guide, not a price in a US shop. Imperial values in brackets are conversions of the metric figure.

Two-part adhesives for PVC
Adhesives for Hypalon / CSM (neoprene)
Repair kits and patches
Cleaners, degreasers and preparation
Tools and accessories

Price sources: svb24.com, compass24.com and the makers' own sites (Polymarine, Yachticon, Plastimo). Prices are indicative — check the current ones with the retailer.

Recommended materials and sources