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Anchor, chain and ground tackle — choice and inspection

Choosing the anchor type and weight, the chain length, and inspecting shackles, the swivel and the bitter end.

The sailing catamaran Madras

Effective anchoring is a system: the anchor, the rope/chain (rode), the connections and the fastening of the inboard end in the hull. The anchor has to suit the bottom — in mud and sand, modern scoop and plough anchors hold well (Rocna, Spade, Delta types), in weed and rock other designs do better, while the classic Danforth gives high holding power in sand for little weight. A versatile main anchor plus a spare of a different type is a sensible standard for a cruising yacht.

Author: Maciej Baniewicz · Boat & Yard editorial team

Methodology: The material was prepared from the sources given and from practical service rules; the parameters have to be confirmed in the manual for the specific manufacturer or model.

The weight of the anchor is chosen according to the length and displacement of the yacht and the conditions expected. Makers publish selection tables against boat length — it is worth choosing from the upper end of the range, because extra weight improves safety when lying in wind. Modern high-holding-power anchors allow lower weights than older designs, but over-sizing the main anchor is rarely a mistake. Bear in mind the load rating of the bow roller and the windlass when choosing.

Chain gives two things: resistance to chafe on the bottom and a catenary curve, which absorbs snatching and keeps the pull flat, which improves the anchor's hold. The key is matching the length of rode paid out to the depth — typically a scope of at least 4:1 for all chain and 5:1–7:1 for a chain+rope combination, increased in a gale. The chain must be calibrated to match the windlass gypsy, or it will jump — a common mistake when replacing it.

The connections are the weakest links, so they are chosen with a suitable margin of strength over the chain. Shackles must have a load rating no lower than the chain, and the pins are locked with stainless wire or a seal against undoing themselves. A swivel makes it easier for the anchor to stow in the bow roller, but use only anchor swivels rated for side loads — a cheap swivel loaded sideways can break. Avoid joining stainless to galvanised steel where it creates a galvanic couple that encourages corrosion.

Very important, and often overlooked, is the fastening of the bitter end — the inboard end of the rode in the chain locker. It should be attached to the hull with a length of rope (not rigidly), long enough to reach and cut in an emergency when the whole ground tackle has to go quickly. Check that the attachment is not corroded and the rope not rotten. Mark the chain every few metres (coloured markers or clips), so that you can tell how much rode is out.

A periodic inspection covers everything. Lay the chain out on deck or the quay and go over it link by link, looking for corrosion, deformation and loss of galvanising; the galvanising wears away and the chain rusts in time — cut out or replace badly corroded lengths. Check the anchor for cracks and a bent shank, tighten and lock the shackles, check the swivel and the operation of the windlass and its brake. Wash the mud and salt off the chain before the seasonal inspection.

How you use it decides how safe the anchorage is. Pay out the rode slackly so that the anchor sets its fluke in the bottom, then load it up (go astern on the engine) to check that it holds. Use a snubber of nylon rope to take the load off the windlass and reduce snatching on the chain, because a windlass is not designed to carry the loads of lying at anchor. Makers such as Lewmar and Vetus publish selection tables for anchors, chain and windlasses — use them whenever you replace anything.

Material prices — products and options

Indicative prices in EUR (incl. VAT), as of July 2026. Products widely available in Europe; prices depend on the shop, the pack size and consumption. The links lead to example shops that ship across the EU. Dollar amounts are converted at 1 EUR = 1.1622 USD (ECB, 7 September 2026) and rounded — treat them as a rough guide, not a price in a US shop. Imperial values in brackets are conversions of the metric figure.

Main anchor
  • Lewmar — Delta (galvanised)
    plough type, self-launching; 6 kg (13.2 lb) about €90, 10 kg (22 lb) about €160, 16 kg (35.3 lb) about €260 (≈$302)    €90–260 (≈$105–302) approx.
  • Rocna — Vulcan (galvanised)
    new generation, no roll bar; 9 kg (19.8 lb) from ~€245, 15 kg (33.1 lb) ~€350, 20 kg (44.1 lb) ~€430 (≈$500)    €245–450 (≈$285–523) approx.
  • Ultra Marine — Anchor (stainless 316)
    premium, polished stainless steel; from ~€670 (≈$779) (smaller sizes)    €670–2500 (≈$779–2,905) approx.
Spare anchor (a different type)
Calibrated DIN766 chain (galvanised)
Nylon anchor rope
Shackles + seizing wire
Anchor swivel
Nylon snubber / shock absorber with a hook
Chain length markers

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