Upholstery decides the comfort and the atmosphere of the interior, but on a boat it works in constant damp and limited ventilation. It is worth treating the refit as a whole: the foam, the covers and what happens beneath them. Start by stripping out and assessing the condition — crumbling foam, anything that smells of mould, and collapsed mattresses are for replacement. A good project starts with accurate measurements and templates from the old covers.
Choosing the foam is crucial: for seats and mattresses a high-density foam of the right firmness is best, while where moisture collects an open-cell foam that lets air through works well (Dry Feel/HR drainage type). Under mattresses it is worth using a spacer layer (a Hypervent/Dri-Deck type mat), which creates a ventilation gap and prevents condensation on the cold laminate. It is a simple step that radically reduces mould from below.
Choose upholstery fabrics for resistance to abrasion, UV and moisture and for ease of cleaning. Outside and in the cockpit, solution-dyed acrylic fabrics (Sunbrella and the like) do well, while inside marine or vinyl fabrics resistant to mould are the answer. The material should have a high Martindale abrasion figure. Avoid fabrics that soak up moisture and are slow to dry, because inside a boat things dry slowly.
Sewing covers needs a machine that copes with thick materials and UV-resistant thread (polyester or special PTFE threads). Plan the cut with an allowance for the seams, fit corrosion-proof zips (plastic ones are best) that make the covers easy to take off for washing, and reinforcing stitching at the corners. For a beginner it is sensible to have the sewing done by an upholsterer while doing the stripping out, the foam fitting and the ventilation yourself. With leather or vinyl, remember the special needles and feet.
A refit is also the chance to deal with the sources of moisture: leaking portlights, sweating topsides, condensation on metal parts. It is worth considering thermal insulation of the hull skin around the berths (a thin closed-cell mat), which shifts the dew point and reduces wet patches on the mattresses. Good ventilation of the lockers under the berths — holes, grilles, vents — keeps things dry. While you are at it, clean and paint the inside of the lockers with moisture-resistant paint.
Interior finishing materials such as headlinings and panels age too — fabric headlinings coming unstuck are replaced with materials made for the purpose, fitted with a heat-resistant contact adhesive. Keep an eye on both looks and practicality: light fabrics make the interior feel bigger but get dirty faster. A thought-out choice of colours and textures improves comfort on long trips. It is worth checking samples in the cabin's real light.
Safety and practice: contact adhesives and solvents are flammable and toxic — work with the hatches open, in gloves and away from any flame. Cut foam with a hot wire or electric knife in a ventilated place. Throw old, mouldy foam away rather than drying it for reuse, because the spores stay in the structure. After the refit it is worth making a permanent habit of airing the berths and lifting the mattresses during longer stays in port.
Material prices — products and options
Indicative prices in EUR (incl. VAT), as of July 2026. Products widely available in Europe; prices depend on the shop, the pack size and consumption. The links lead to example shops that ship across the EU. Dollar amounts are converted at 1 EUR = 1.1622 USD (ECB, 7 September 2026) and rounded — treat them as a rough guide, not a price in a US shop. Imperial values in brackets are conversions of the metric figure.
High-density upholstery foam
- Extremtextil — Kaltschaum foam RG35/RG40
high-density foam for seats and backrests, sheets of various thicknesses (per sheet)€30–90 (≈$35–105) - Sailrite — Dry Fast foam (open-cell)
fast-drying foam for mattresses and the cockpit, drains water well€40–120 (≈$46–139)
Ventilating spacer mat for under mattresses
- SVB — Mattress Underlay (Hypervent)
10 mm (0.39 in) spacer mat preventing condensation under mattresses, 205 cm (6.7 ft) wide (per 10 cm (3.94 in))€5 (≈$6) / 10 cm (3.94 in) - AQUA STOP — Mattress Pad
three-dimensional polyester mesh mat with a non-slip layer€38–60 (≈$44–70)
Marine / acrylic upholstery fabric
- Sunbrella — Marine Upholstery
solution-dyed acrylic fabric, highly resistant to UV and mould (per metre)€40–80 (≈$46–93) - Spradling — Silvertex
vinyl-coated fabric, abrasion resistant (300,000 Martindale), per metre€25–50 (≈$29–58) - Extremtextil — outdoor fabrics
acrylic and coated fabrics for upholstery and biminis (per metre)€20–60 (≈$23–70)
UV-resistant thread and plastic zips
- UV thread (Serafil / Tenara)
polyester and PTFE threads resistant to UV and salt water, spools of various lengths€5–35 (≈$6–41) - YKK coil zips (plastic)
non-corroding plastic zips, by the metre or made up (per piece/metre)€2–12 (≈$2–14)
Contact adhesive for foam and headlining
- 3M — Spray 77 / 74 (contact adhesive)
spray adhesive for foam and fabrics, for bonding headlining and upholstery€15–25 (≈$17–29) - Sika — Sikaflex 298 FC
surface adhesive for bonding coverings and flooring, 600 ml (20 fl oz)€25–35 (≈$29–41)
Closed-cell insulating mat for the topsides
- SVB — EPDM insulating mat
flexible, closed-cell EPDM insulation, resistant to UV and moisture€23–60 (≈$27–70) - Armacell — Armaflex (self-adhesive)
self-adhesive closed-cell rubber matting against condensation€30–80 (≈$35–93) - SVB — sound-deadening panel 495
insulating and sound-deadening panel for bulkheads and engine boxes€37–70 (≈$43–81)
Electric knife / hot wire for cutting foam
- Sailrite — Hot Knife
hot knife for cutting foam and sealing the edges of synthetic fabrics€80–200 (≈$93–232) - Extremtextil — hot knife
electric tool for cutting foam and sealing fabric edges€40–120 (≈$46–139)
Upholstery tools and safety gear
- Upholstery tools
stapler, seam ripper, tailor's shears, awls (set)€30–90 (≈$35–105) - Gloves, mask, goggles
protection when working with spray adhesives and cutting foam (safety set)€20–50 (≈$23–58)